To a surfer, this was an incredibly fascinating read. It was like paddling into the surf right beside Kelly Slater and getting to hear all about his deepest fears, his lofty ambitions, and the numerous obstacles he has faced in life. I truly enjoyed it a great deal!
It will not, of course, be able to match William Finnegan's Pulitzer Prize-winning work in terms of the quality of writing, such as "Barbian Days". However, it did seem to offer a very candid and honest view of the life that Kelly has lived. He has had a remarkable journey as both a Hollywood actor and a world champion surfer. But despite all his achievements, I would not want to live his life.
Perhaps it's because the pressures and challenges that come with such a high-profile and diverse career are just too great. Or maybe it's because everyone has their own unique path and set of desires. In any case, this book provides an interesting glimpse into the life of a remarkable individual.