It's really fun to look back at surfing in the 70s and see the significant changes it has undergone. Back then, it was about trying to arch your back. But now, it's all about going as vertical as humanly possible.
The book is centered around Kelly Slater. It begins when he was just a baby and follows his journey until he was 43 and achieved his 14th world title.
For Kelly, it all started in Cocoa Beach, Florida. His first board was a buggy board, on which he would spin in circles. Then he got a real board and started excelling. He always performed well in contests. However, when he joined the tour, people didn't initially like his style. At that time, people preferred sole surfing, but Kelly was into big turns and airs, which is what modern-day surfing looks like. The judges had to learn and adapt to this new style.
I really like this book because it's all about a surfer and his life. If you surf or would like to know more about it, this is an excellent book to read.
I came to the realization that fixating on the big picture was actually hindering my progress. I had to shift my focus and concentrate intently on every single second of what I was doing. I needed to keep firmly in mind that as long as there was still time remaining on the clock, I still had a glimmer of hope.
Written in chronological order, starting from his beginnings in Cocoa Beach, FL, and leading up to his ascent as one of the preeminent professional surfers in the world, Kelly Slater's autobiography offers a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at how he became the renowned surfer he is today. He takes us back to his early days as a grom, participating in surfing contests under less than perfect conditions. He openly shares tales of his challenging family life. He delves into the struggles of making and maintaining financial stability, his tumultuous relationships, and intense rivalries. And yet, through all of these obstacles, he manages to become an 11-time world champion.
The saying "no guts, no glory" truly comes to life when reading about Slater. Great athletes are often willing to take extreme risks in order to reap the rewards. Reading through some of these contest stories and witnessing the level to which Slater pushed himself, it becomes evident that he is, in my opinion, one of the all-time greats. He also had the audacity to challenge the traditional surfing styles, which, I suspect, probably irked a lot of the old guard. But he saw the potential for progression in surfing and pursued it wholeheartedly, despite the criticism and backlash he received.
The writing style is very much like a casual "talk story," as we say in Hawai`i when we're having a laid-back chat with friends, reminiscing about the past. This makes it incredibly easy to follow along and truly get a sense of what Slater was thinking and feeling during these events. He is also refreshingly unforgiving in his honesty, which I absolutely love. Some people might find this off-putting, but I appreciate his upfront attitude and personality.
Born and raised on O`ahu in the nineties, Kelly Slater was like a god. And I didn't even surf! But I was and still am a fan of the sport. I knew his name, saw his photos in the magazines at Foodland, and recognized that in the world of surfing, he was the epitome of success. You don't have to be a die-hard fan of surfing or Kelly Slater to enjoy this book; it provides any reader with a valuable insight into how hard work and perseverance can pay off, and that in life, as long as there's time left on the clock, there's always a chance.
Very Cool.
Kelly Slater has an extremely cool life. He is not just an ordinary person but a surfing legend. His days are filled with excitement and adventure as he rides the waves in some of the most beautiful and challenging locations around the world. He has achieved great success in the surfing world, winning numerous championships and setting records. But his cool life is not just about surfing. He also enjoys other activities such as traveling, spending time with friends and family, and pursuing his hobbies. He has a laid-back and positive attitude towards life, which makes him even more appealing. Overall, Kelly Slater's life is truly very cool and something that many people can only dream of.
The book "Pipe Dreams" by Kelly Slater is truly outstanding. It provides a highly detailed account of all the remarkable accomplishments he has achieved throughout his life and the aspirations he has for the future. Moreover, it delves deeply into his personal life, revealing what he enjoys doing in his spare time when he is not competing on the world tour. The book also offers valuable insights into how he has risen to his current position and the efforts he has made to get there. Overall, it is an excellent read that offers a comprehensive look at the life and career of Kelly Slater.
I thoroughly enjoyed this read. It was truly fascinating to learn about Kelly's childhood. Growing up in Florida, he was surrounded by the beautiful beaches and the allure of the ocean. This environment无疑 had a profound impact on his life and his passion for surfing.
As a professional surfer, Kelly's life is filled with excitement and adventure. He spends his days riding the waves, pushing himself to the limit, and competing against the best in the world. His skill and determination have earned him numerous accolades and a reputation as one of the greatest surfers of all time.
Reading about Kelly's life has inspired me to pursue my own dreams and to never give up. It has shown me that with hard work and dedication, anything is possible. I look forward to following his career and seeing what other amazing things he will accomplish in the future.
I am delving into the remarkable journey of Kelly Slater, who has ascended from being an ordinary surfer to becoming the best in the world. This topic holds a special allure for me as I hail from a family of surfers and have a passion for surfing myself. I already possess a significant amount of knowledge about this subject matter. What makes the book particularly interesting is that it is presented from Kelly Slater's own perspective. It offers a unique and intimate look into his experiences, struggles, and triumphs along the way. Through his eyes, we can gain a deeper understanding of the dedication, hard work, and perseverance that it takes to reach the pinnacle of the surfing world. I am excited to continue exploring this captivating story and uncovering the secrets behind Kelly Slater's success.