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Bryson in Australia
1 July 2017
tI have something to admit – I’ve never been to Uluru. I have traveled to Europe, seen the Tower Brige and the Arc de Triumphe, I have wandered the gardens of Versailles and walked the plains where Hannibul slaughtered the Romans, but I have never been to Uluru, and it doesn’t seem to be all that likely I’ll be going there in the near future. The reason that I raise this is because in this book Byrson pretty much describe Uluru, a rock of which there is nothing like it in the entire world, and dominates your vision as you approach it, rising like a lone monolith in an empty desert, literally defines Australia. In fact you cannot arrive in Australia without seeing an image of Uluru. Actually, there are probably quite a few Australians in my position, well, not quite because if they can afford to go to Europe then they can certainly afford to go to Uluru.
tAnyway, the impression that I got from this book is that Bill Bryson absolutely loves Australia, and honestly what is there not to love – sun, sand, wonderful beaches, lovely people, and a developed and peaceful country. Okay, granted, pretty much everything in Australia is out to kill you, and we have pretty much each and every one of the top ten deadliest snakes in the world (not to mention shells that spit poison and jelly fish that make the beaches uninhabitable in the summer), but the thing is that for those of us who live in Australia we just shrug our shoulders, say ‘she’ll be right mate’ and ‘no worries’, and get on with life. Actually, in all my time in Australia I have seen a grand total of two living snakes (which doesn’t count the snake that one of my housemates killed with a mop and tossed over the neighbour’s fence, namely because I wasn’t there to see that spectacle – oh, and my house mate was French).
tSure, Australia has its problems, and sure, Australia isn’t anything like the old world with its grand castles, beautiful churches, magnificent works of art, or even a theatre scene that would keep me entranced for months, but that isn’t why people come to Australia. People come to Australia to experience the life style, the wonder, to cruise the harbour, and to visit the beaches. In short, people don’t come to Australia to see things that other people have built, but rather they come to Australia to see nature in all of its glory. That might be saying something considering that around eighty percent of Australia is desert, but outside of that eighty percent you have a variety of landscapes and climate that is very hard to beat. Hey, the United States doesn’t have any tropical rainforests that I’m aware of, nor is there a danger of a kangaroo taking out your car while you are driving down the road.
tOh, and if there is anything that describes the Australian lifestyle it is this:
tI would say that Bryson traveled all over the country, but the thing is that Australia is so huge, and there is so much here to explore, whether it be the struggles of the early explorers and colonists, or simply the natural beauty, that it would be impossible to do in a couple of trips, and from what I gathered from the book he was here for quite a while (which suggests that his wife must be very supportive of him going off and gallivanting around the world). He even has a friend come with him for part of the trip, which added a little spice to his generally solo travels. I guess that is why he finishes off with the Grey Nomads, retirees who sell up, buy a campervan, and simply spend their golden years traveling across the country.
tThere are a couple of things that I probably should mention that come out of this book though, the first being the explorers. I grew up hearing all about the explorers, and in a way, as a kid, they were my heroes. I would be constantly reminded of them, and their routes, when I looked at a map to see the Stuart Highway heading up through the centre of Australia, and the Eyre Highway heading from Adelaide to Perth. However, one thing that has come out about them as I have grown older is how insane they were. There is the story of Burke and Wills, who left Melbourne to find an inland route to the north and were so convinced that there had to be an inland sea that they decided to take everything (and when I say everything, I mean everything), except extra supplies of water. Needless to say that they didn’t make it.
tOh, and there was Stuart, who attempted to cross the centre of Australia, almost killed himself, then tried it again with similar results, and if coming to the brink of death twice was not enough, he made a third attempt, which was successful. However, there was an interesting anecdote (I’m not sure of the truth of the story though), that when he wandered into the dead centre he encountered some Aboriginals who greeted him with the Freemason’s greeting, and then proceeded to demonstrate how they knew how to tie a shoelace – clearly he wasn’t the first person to come here, and who these previous travelers were remains a mystery (and no doubt the died in the attempt). Oh, there is also the running joke about drinking urine, namely because when you are dying of thirst you will go to extreme lengths to survive (not that it will actually do any good considering the salt content).
tThen there is this aspect of Australia that makes it seem forgotten. It is basically at the far flung reaches of the world, further away than pretty much anywhere (well, not as far flung as Tristan da Cunha), surrounded by water, and the only major metropolises lie in the South-Eastern corner of the country. It takes seven hours to fly to Singapore, and no doubt even more to get to Los Angeles. Bryson also makes a quirp as to how nobody actually knows the name of the Prime Minister of Australia (it’s Malcolm Turnbull by the way), nor anything about our politics. However, one interesting titbit he points out is that when he was here there was this case going through court, a defamation case, involving a journalist writing some things about two government ministers, and it just happened that these two ministers had the names Abbott and Costello. Mind you, Tony Abbott did end up being a bit of a joke, going down in history as one of the most disliked Prime Ministers in Australia, and even though he has since been kicked out of the position he still sits there with this absolutely strange belief that the people of Australia actually want him back.
tI will finish off by speaking about the Aboriginals, who are referred to as Australia’s forgotten people. In reality the are, and our treatment of them is nothing short of shameful. When pretty much hunting them for sport and committing wholesale genocide didn’t work (that is kill off the ones that weren’t killed off by the introduction of European diseases), we then went about confiscating their children and attempting to raise them as Westerners. Well, that didn’t work and now we have his horrendous underclass in the cities (that you rarely see by the way), and communities living in what is in effect third world conditions in the outback – which are also being ravaged by drugs and alcohol, as well as petrol sniffing (though that isn’t anywhere near as bad a problem as it used to be). Bryson seemed to think that they simply lurked in the shadows as people wandered by them without a care in the world, or even acknowledging their existence, but I can assure you that if you encounter a group of them at night, when there is nobody else around, then you will know about it. However, it is true that you rarely, if ever, see one serving behind the counter at a store, or anywhere for that matter. Okay, some of them do land up with decent jobs, but the problem is that there is still a huge amount of prejudice towards them. Yet I remember this one aboriginal I knew at primary school – the only one at school by the way - and he was a wonderful person. I don’t know what happened to him, but I still remember him following me around as I was doing library duties, keen to learn as much as he could.
1 July 2017
tI have something to admit – I’ve never been to Uluru. I have traveled to Europe, seen the Tower Brige and the Arc de Triumphe, I have wandered the gardens of Versailles and walked the plains where Hannibul slaughtered the Romans, but I have never been to Uluru, and it doesn’t seem to be all that likely I’ll be going there in the near future. The reason that I raise this is because in this book Byrson pretty much describe Uluru, a rock of which there is nothing like it in the entire world, and dominates your vision as you approach it, rising like a lone monolith in an empty desert, literally defines Australia. In fact you cannot arrive in Australia without seeing an image of Uluru. Actually, there are probably quite a few Australians in my position, well, not quite because if they can afford to go to Europe then they can certainly afford to go to Uluru.
tAnyway, the impression that I got from this book is that Bill Bryson absolutely loves Australia, and honestly what is there not to love – sun, sand, wonderful beaches, lovely people, and a developed and peaceful country. Okay, granted, pretty much everything in Australia is out to kill you, and we have pretty much each and every one of the top ten deadliest snakes in the world (not to mention shells that spit poison and jelly fish that make the beaches uninhabitable in the summer), but the thing is that for those of us who live in Australia we just shrug our shoulders, say ‘she’ll be right mate’ and ‘no worries’, and get on with life. Actually, in all my time in Australia I have seen a grand total of two living snakes (which doesn’t count the snake that one of my housemates killed with a mop and tossed over the neighbour’s fence, namely because I wasn’t there to see that spectacle – oh, and my house mate was French).
tSure, Australia has its problems, and sure, Australia isn’t anything like the old world with its grand castles, beautiful churches, magnificent works of art, or even a theatre scene that would keep me entranced for months, but that isn’t why people come to Australia. People come to Australia to experience the life style, the wonder, to cruise the harbour, and to visit the beaches. In short, people don’t come to Australia to see things that other people have built, but rather they come to Australia to see nature in all of its glory. That might be saying something considering that around eighty percent of Australia is desert, but outside of that eighty percent you have a variety of landscapes and climate that is very hard to beat. Hey, the United States doesn’t have any tropical rainforests that I’m aware of, nor is there a danger of a kangaroo taking out your car while you are driving down the road.
tOh, and if there is anything that describes the Australian lifestyle it is this:
tI would say that Bryson traveled all over the country, but the thing is that Australia is so huge, and there is so much here to explore, whether it be the struggles of the early explorers and colonists, or simply the natural beauty, that it would be impossible to do in a couple of trips, and from what I gathered from the book he was here for quite a while (which suggests that his wife must be very supportive of him going off and gallivanting around the world). He even has a friend come with him for part of the trip, which added a little spice to his generally solo travels. I guess that is why he finishes off with the Grey Nomads, retirees who sell up, buy a campervan, and simply spend their golden years traveling across the country.
tThere are a couple of things that I probably should mention that come out of this book though, the first being the explorers. I grew up hearing all about the explorers, and in a way, as a kid, they were my heroes. I would be constantly reminded of them, and their routes, when I looked at a map to see the Stuart Highway heading up through the centre of Australia, and the Eyre Highway heading from Adelaide to Perth. However, one thing that has come out about them as I have grown older is how insane they were. There is the story of Burke and Wills, who left Melbourne to find an inland route to the north and were so convinced that there had to be an inland sea that they decided to take everything (and when I say everything, I mean everything), except extra supplies of water. Needless to say that they didn’t make it.
tOh, and there was Stuart, who attempted to cross the centre of Australia, almost killed himself, then tried it again with similar results, and if coming to the brink of death twice was not enough, he made a third attempt, which was successful. However, there was an interesting anecdote (I’m not sure of the truth of the story though), that when he wandered into the dead centre he encountered some Aboriginals who greeted him with the Freemason’s greeting, and then proceeded to demonstrate how they knew how to tie a shoelace – clearly he wasn’t the first person to come here, and who these previous travelers were remains a mystery (and no doubt the died in the attempt). Oh, there is also the running joke about drinking urine, namely because when you are dying of thirst you will go to extreme lengths to survive (not that it will actually do any good considering the salt content).
tThen there is this aspect of Australia that makes it seem forgotten. It is basically at the far flung reaches of the world, further away than pretty much anywhere (well, not as far flung as Tristan da Cunha), surrounded by water, and the only major metropolises lie in the South-Eastern corner of the country. It takes seven hours to fly to Singapore, and no doubt even more to get to Los Angeles. Bryson also makes a quirp as to how nobody actually knows the name of the Prime Minister of Australia (it’s Malcolm Turnbull by the way), nor anything about our politics. However, one interesting titbit he points out is that when he was here there was this case going through court, a defamation case, involving a journalist writing some things about two government ministers, and it just happened that these two ministers had the names Abbott and Costello. Mind you, Tony Abbott did end up being a bit of a joke, going down in history as one of the most disliked Prime Ministers in Australia, and even though he has since been kicked out of the position he still sits there with this absolutely strange belief that the people of Australia actually want him back.
tI will finish off by speaking about the Aboriginals, who are referred to as Australia’s forgotten people. In reality the are, and our treatment of them is nothing short of shameful. When pretty much hunting them for sport and committing wholesale genocide didn’t work (that is kill off the ones that weren’t killed off by the introduction of European diseases), we then went about confiscating their children and attempting to raise them as Westerners. Well, that didn’t work and now we have his horrendous underclass in the cities (that you rarely see by the way), and communities living in what is in effect third world conditions in the outback – which are also being ravaged by drugs and alcohol, as well as petrol sniffing (though that isn’t anywhere near as bad a problem as it used to be). Bryson seemed to think that they simply lurked in the shadows as people wandered by them without a care in the world, or even acknowledging their existence, but I can assure you that if you encounter a group of them at night, when there is nobody else around, then you will know about it. However, it is true that you rarely, if ever, see one serving behind the counter at a store, or anywhere for that matter. Okay, some of them do land up with decent jobs, but the problem is that there is still a huge amount of prejudice towards them. Yet I remember this one aboriginal I knew at primary school – the only one at school by the way - and he was a wonderful person. I don’t know what happened to him, but I still remember him following me around as I was doing library duties, keen to learn as much as he could.