The City of Falling Angels

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The author of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil returns after more than a decade to give us an intimate look at the "magic, mystery, and decadence" of the city of Venice and its inhabitants.

Venice, a city steeped in a thousand years of history, art and architecture, teeters in precarious balance between endurance and decay. Its architectural treasures crumble—foundations shift, marble ornaments fall—even as efforts to preserve them are underway. The City of Falling Angels opens on the evening of January 29, 1996, when a dramatic fire destroys the historic Fenice opera house. The loss of the Fenice, where five of Verdi's operas premiered, is a catastrophe for Venetians. Arriving in Venice three days after the fire, Berendt becomes a kind of detective—inquiring into the nature of life in this remarkable museum-city—while gradually revealing the truth about the fire.

In the course of his investigations, Berendt introduces us to a rich cast of characters: a prominent Venetian poet whose shocking "suicide" prompts his skeptical friends to pursue a murder suspect on their own; the first family of American expatriates that loses possession of the family palace after four generations of ownership; an organization of high-society, partygoing Americans who raise money to preserve the art and architecture of Venice, while quarreling in public among themselves, questioning one another's motives and drawing startled Venetians into the fray; a contemporary Venetian surrealist painter and outrageous provocateur; the master glassblower of Venice; and numerous others-stool pigeons, scapegoats, hustlers, sleepwalkers, believers in Martians, the Plant Man, the Rat Man, and Henry James.

Berendt tells a tale full of atmosphere and surprise as the stories build, one after the other, ultimately coming together to reveal a world as finely drawn as a still-life painting. The fire and its aftermath serve as a leitmotif that runs throughout, adding the elements of chaos, corruption, and crime and contributing to the ever-mounting suspense of this brilliant book.

414 pages, Paperback

First published September 30,2005

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italyvenice

About the author

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The son of two writers, John Berendt grew up in Syracuse, New York. He earned a B.A. in English from Harvard University, where he worked on the staff of The Harvard Lampoon. After graduating in 1961, he moved to New York City to pursue a career in publishing. He was editor of New York magazine from 1977 to 1979, and wrote a monthly column for Esquire from 1982 to 1994.

Berendt first traveled to Savannah in the early 80's, and spent more and more time there over the next few years, until he was there more often than he was in New York.

Community Reviews

Rating(4 / 5.0, 100 votes)
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100 reviews All reviews
July 15,2025
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In The City Of Falling Angels, John Berendt endeavors to achieve for Venice what he accomplished for Savannah, Georgia, in his highly successful Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil. Just as the earlier work commenced with a murder, this one begins with something equally captivating: a fire that, in 1996, obliterated the historic La Fenice Opera House and nearly decimated Venice itself.


The cause of the fire is regarded as arson by some, negligence by others, and there are speculations that the Mafia might be involved. However, the book is less about the outcome of the investigation and more about the people who inhabit the island. These range from old world nobles residing in palazzos along the Grand Canal to American expats and a diverse array of artists, artisans, and simple tradespeople.


Berendt - who, by coincidence, arrived in the city three days after the fire - is a perceptive observer. When he describes people and places, there is an abundance of drama and humor. Particularly amusing is the portrayal of the man who earns his living by formulating specialized rat poisons for various cities.


Nevertheless, what Berendt lacks here is a compelling villain, someone as mysterious and menacing as his first book's Jim Williams. There is also no one as unabashedly self-promoting and outrageous as the Lady Chablis, the drag queen who achieved minor celebrity status after the success of Midnight.


One gets the sense that the author was inundated by the sheer volume of history and background he had to convey. Nowhere is this more evident than in the virtually unreadable chapter about Ezra Pound, his wife, and his mistress.


Perhaps it is the language barrier (a glossary of words and names is useful) or the fact that Venetians are a protective and contradictory people, but the book does not fully come alive.


Still, travelers seeking the inside scoop on the real Venice - with barely a mention of St. Mark's Square - will want to pick this up.


Originally published in NOW Magazine: nowtoronto.com/art-and-books/books/ci...
July 15,2025
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Berendt is an outstanding author whose books have the remarkable ability to transport readers to different worlds, especially during the quiet moments of the night when one is winding down after a long and tiring day. His works have a unique charm that lures readers in and keeps them engaged. In this particular book, he has managed to take me on a virtual journey to Venice, a place I had no particular longing to visit before. However, through his vivid descriptions and engaging storytelling, he has made me feel as if I was actually there, experiencing the beauty and allure of the city. If you have already read his previous works and are hungry for more of his captivating writing, then I highly recommend this book. It will surely not disappoint and will leave you with a sense of wonder and satisfaction.

July 15,2025
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Anybody who knows me knows I don't read a lot of non-fiction.

I WANT to read non-fiction, but I get lured away by the latest Mieville or Valente, almost every time. It doesn't help that to me a lot of non-fiction feels tedious, like I'm pushing a gondola through the sludge of a half-drained Venetian canal. (Heh. See what I did there?)

But THIS book, I liked. The title definitely grabbed me: in the early 1970's, before a lot of restoration got started in Venice, pieces of the marble ornaments on the Santa Maria della Salute Church were falling off onto pedestrians. A helpful citizen posted a sign outside: "BEWARE OF FALLING ANGELS." How can you NOT like a story like that?

And that's what the whole book is, a series of little stories. In some places one chapter has seven or eight interesting little tidbits, all woven together by the theme of the chapter, and all of the chapters are wound around the theme of Venice, specifically the Fenice opera house that all but burned down to the ground in 1996.

A few chapters in I'd told someone "It's a good book as long as you're okay that it doesn't have a point." I thought it was just a lot of randomly placed stories about Venice and Venice natives (who, according to Berendt, are both friendly and aloof, generous and gouging, trustworthy and just a smidge pirate. Bribery is a lot more common there than here...or rather they ADMIT to it more there than here. According to Berendt mind you, I haven't been myself, but after reading this book I sure plan to.)

Where was I....OH yes, a point. At first I thought it didn't have one, but really, the theme is very subtle, and he weaves together all these people and events, and by the end it's tied up in a neat little literary bow. I was seriously impressed.

It's been years since I read "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" but now I'm gonna have to go back and give it a look, because City of Falling Angels was the first book I've read in months that I was honestly sorry when it ended. I'd like to get back in the boat please! (Sorry, had to tie it all up...like a gondola to the pier...okay okay I'll stop....)

This book offers a unique and engaging perspective on Venice. It's not just about the famous landmarks and tourist attractions, but also about the people who live there and the stories that make the city come alive. The author's writing style is vivid and descriptive, making it easy to imagine oneself in the midst of the action.

Overall, I would highly recommend this book to anyone who has an interest in Venice or who enjoys reading non-fiction that is both entertaining and informative. It's a book that will stay with you long after you've finished reading it.
July 15,2025
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This was an extremely intriguing book.

On the surface, it was ostensibly about the Venice Opera fire. However, it delved much deeper into Venetian society as a whole, encompassing even the ex-pat community.

The author, who is also the writer of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (a work that I have not had the opportunity to read), vividly describes his decision to move to Venice right after the fire.

He then meticulously details how the rich and complex past history of Venice has a profound impact on its current history.

It's as if the events of the past are constantly shaping and influencing the present, creating a web of connections that are both fascinating and enlightening.

Through his words, the reader is able to gain a unique perspective on Venice, not just as a beautiful city with a tragic event like the Opera fire, but as a living, breathing entity with a history that is still very much alive.

Overall, this book offers a captivating exploration of Venice and its society, making it a must-read for anyone interested in history, culture, or simply a good story.

July 15,2025
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Having thoroughly enjoyed "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" during a trip to Savannah a couple of years ago, I decided to pick up this book by Berendt to gain a deeper understanding of Venice, its rich history, vibrant culture, and fascinating characters. The story unfolds against the backdrop of a devastating fire that consumed a renowned Venetian opera house, leaving the cause shrouded in mystery - was it negligence, arson, or perhaps both? The chapters seamlessly jump between the diverse and quirky characters that Berendt encountered during his stay and who are intertwined with the Fenice fire and its subsequent rebuilding.


I rate this book 2 stars because it made for an okay comfort read. I did enjoy getting to know the various Venetian personalities featured and learning about some American ex-pats in Venice, such as Ezra Pound and his longtime mistress, the talented concert violinist Olga Rudge. However, a significant focus was on many non-Venetian, largely American, socialites, their dramas, and rather unappealing behavior, which I quickly grew tired of hearing about. I would have much preferred to learn more about the Venetians themselves. Perhaps another book would be more suitable for delving deeper into this subject.

July 15,2025
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I listened to this as an audio book. It was truly very good. The narrator's voice was engaging and brought the story to life. I found myself completely immersed in the narrative, as if I was right there in the middle of the action. The pacing was just right, not too fast or too slow, allowing me to fully understand and enjoy every moment. The sound effects and background music added an extra layer of depth and atmosphere to the listening experience. I would highly recommend this audio book to anyone looking for an entertaining and engaging listen. It's a great way to pass the time and escape into a different world.

July 15,2025
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If you were captivated by "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil," then this book is an absolute must-read for you. It is truly every bit as good, if not better! I found myself completely engrossed in its pages from start to finish.

The story had me on the edge of my seat, filled with mystery, intrigue, and unforgettable characters. I couldn't put it down! I was so impressed that I am seriously considering changing my rating to a perfect five stars.

This book has all the elements that make a great read - a compelling plot, beautiful writing, and a sense of atmosphere that draws you in and makes you feel like you are part of the story. I highly recommend it to anyone who loves a good mystery or a captivating tale. You won't be disappointed!

July 15,2025
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I had a truly complex love-hate relationship with this book.

Many reviews gripe that the book lacks a genuine theme, being merely a jumble of diverse stories thrown together. To some extent, that's true, but oddly enough, I found that aspect appealing. The writing is superb, highly evocative, and it masterfully captures the essence of Venice, effectively transporting me to that enchanting city. I thoroughly relished it, and perhaps it deserves a 5-star rating just for that.

However, I've deducted one star because right from the very first chapter, when the author went to great lengths to set himself apart from "the tourists," I was plagued by an irritation that persisted throughout. It was either the countless repetitions of how it was absolutely a coincidence that he was there right after the Fenice burnt down, or the incessant name-dropping of countless people I'd never heard of (and likely wouldn't like if I had). There's a palpable air of snobbery pervading the entire book.

Despite all his claims of desiring to write about the Venetian people, the author appears to have spent the majority of his eight years in Venice mingling with the wealthy expat crowd. Nevertheless, despite disliking virtually everyone in the book, I still loved it. Because, at the end of the day, Venice is still Venice, and that's what truly matters.
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