Their Heads are Green and Their Hands are Blue: Scenes from the Non-Christian World

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An engaging collection of travel essays by the author of The Sheltering Sky Their Heads are Green, Their Hands are Blue deals largely with places in the world that few Westerners have ever heard of, much less seen―places as yet unencumbered by the trappings, luxuries, and corruptions of modern civilization. Bowles is a sympathetic and discerning observer of these alien cultures, and his eyes and ears are especially alert both to what is bizarre and what is wise in the civilizations in which he settles. Above all, Bowles is a superb and observant traveler―a born wanderer who finds pleasure in the inaccessible and who cheerfully endures the concomitant hardships with resourcefulness, insight, and humor.

240 pages, Paperback

First published January 1,1957

About the author

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Paul Bowles grew up in New York, and attended college at the University of Virginia before traveling to Paris, where became a part of Gertrude Stein's literary and artistic circle. Following her advice, he took his first trip to Tangiers in 1931 with his friend, composer Aaron Copeland.

In 1938 he married author and playwright Jane Auer (see: Jane Bowles). He moved to Tangiers permanently in 1947, with Auer following him there in 1948. There they became fixtures of the American and European expatriate scene, their visitors including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Gore Vidal. Bowles continued to live in Tangiers after the death of his wife in 1973.

Bowles died of heart failure in Tangier on November 18, 1999. His ashes were interred near the graves of his parents and grandparents in Lakemont, New York.

Community Reviews

Rating(4 / 5.0, 58 votes)
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58 reviews All reviews
July 15,2025
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An account of his time in Morocco - excellent.

This book offers a captivating and detailed narrative of the author's experiences in Morocco. It takes the reader on a journey through the vibrant cities, the ancient medinas, and the beautiful landscapes of this North African country.

The author's descriptions are so vivid that you can almost smell the spices in the markets and feel the warm sun on your skin. The book is not only a travelogue but also a cultural exploration, providing insights into the traditions, customs, and way of life of the Moroccan people.

Recommended by Jarrah, this book is a must-read for anyone interested in Morocco or travel in general. It will transport you to a different world and leave you with a deeper understanding and appreciation of this fascinating country.

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July 15,2025
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Raccolta di viaggi compiuti da Bowles in giro per il mondo, "Le loro teste sono verdi..." è una lettura davvero affascinante. Questa opera ha la capacità di trasmettere al lettore un'immediata nostalgia per posti che probabilmente non ha mai visto.


A differenza della mentalità dell'esploratore colonialista, Bowles si pone sullo stesso livello di coloro che visita. Nella sua ricerca di esplorazione e conoscenza, accetta anche le situazioni più stranianti e assurde, perché vuole immergersi in esperienze incredibili.


Solo la parte sul "battesimo della solitudine" è già sufficiente a rendere la lettura davvero valida. Inoltre, lascia crescere la curiosità del lettore, pagina dopo pagina, peripezia dopo peripezia, pipata di kif dopo pipata di kif. E non può non suscitare interesse anche il fatto che Bowles ha fatto registrazioni per l'Istituto Rockefeller della musica nordafricana. Tutto questo contribuisce a creare un'opera che è molto più di una semplice raccolta di viaggi.

July 15,2025
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A series of travel essays offer a captivating exploration. Paul Bowles' writing is truly remarkable as he uses his gorgeous description of each place to romanticize it in a unique way. 'Baptism of Solitude' stands out as a profoundly poetic account. It delves into his experience within the vast Sahara, and through that, it also reveals his encounter with isolation. This particular essay proved to be my absolute favourite. It allows the reader to immerse themselves in the desolate beauty of the Sahara and feel the profound sense of solitude that Bowles experienced.


'All Parrots Speak' is another gem among these essays. It is a comedic retelling of his experiences with pet parrots. The way in which he describes them is truly enchanting. They almost seem like omnipresent angel-like figures, sent from another plane of existence. His vivid descriptions bring these parrots to life and add a touch of humor and magic to the narrative. This essay is a delightful read that showcases Bowles' ability to find beauty and charm in the most unexpected places.

July 15,2025
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Bowles writes with great insight and beauty. His words seem to flow like a gentle stream, carrying the reader along with ease. However, there is something about his writing that is just a bit too soporific for my taste. It has a lulling effect that makes it difficult for me to stay fully engaged and keep turning the pages.

Despite this, I did enjoy all that I read. The passages that I managed to get through were filled with thought-provoking ideas and vivid descriptions. It was clear that Bowles is a talented writer with a unique perspective.

I just wish that his writing had a bit more energy and pace to it. Maybe if he had injected some more excitement and drama into his stories, I would have been more inclined to stick with it until the end. But as it stands, I had to bail halfway through.
July 15,2025
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A bit of a scattershot anthology, this collection leaves one wondering why these particular essays ended up together. However, despite this initial confusion, one cannot help but be instantly hooked on Bowles' travel writing. Her words paint vivid pictures of far-off places, transporting the reader to different cultures and landscapes. Each essay is a unique adventure, filled with interesting characters and unexpected encounters. Bowles has a way of making the ordinary seem extraordinary, and her descriptions are so detailed that one can almost smell the spices in the market or feel the sand between their toes. Whether she is writing about a bustling city or a remote village, her love for travel shines through on every page. This anthology may be a bit of a hodgepodge, but it is well worth reading for Bowles' captivating travel writing alone.

July 15,2025
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Loved it! It was a very interesting read indeed.

As I was going through the text, I found myself constantly drawn to the internet, eager to look up the people and places mentioned.

However, to my disappointment, in far too many instances, I discovered that they no longer existed.

It was quite a strange and somewhat melancholy feeling.

It made me realize how quickly things can change and how much history can be lost.

I will definitely add some quotes later to further enhance the article and provide more context.

Overall, it was a thought-provoking experience that has left me with a lot to think about.
July 15,2025
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Bowles at his best - short travel essays through parts of the Moslem world in the 1950's. He documents well the bizarre and the wise. He encounters outlandish characters, and witnesses the rapidly changing nature of the third world as it struggles to come to grips with self-government. At the same time, he observes the corrosive nature of western culture that is reaching these places for the first time.


His descriptions are vivid and detailed, painting a picture of a world that is both fascinating and complex. He shows us the beauty and the ugliness, the traditions and the modernization. His writing is not just about travel, but also about the human experience.


This is as good as travel-writing gets. It is a must-read for anyone who is interested in the Moslem world, or in the art of travel writing. Bowles' insights and observations are sure to stay with you long after you have finished reading.

July 15,2025
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If you can overlook the Orientalist tropes, this compilation presents a set of moderately engaging narratives regarding Bowles's voyages across North Africa and Asia.

The descriptions are rather unembellished, yet there are occasional unexpected elements that manage to pique the reader's interest.

Bowles's travels seem to have been filled with a mix of ordinary and extraordinary experiences.

While the overall tone may be somewhat平淡, there are still moments that shine through and offer a glimpse into the diverse cultures and landscapes he encountered.

Perhaps it is these rare surprises that make this collection worth exploring, despite its flaws.

It serves as a reminder that even in the most seemingly ordinary of travels, there can be hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

Whether it's a chance encounter with a local or a breathtaking view of a distant horizon, Bowles's adventures have the potential to transport the reader to far-off lands and ignite their sense of curiosity.

Overall, this collection may not be a literary masterpiece, but it does offer a unique perspective on travel and exploration in North Africa and Asia.
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