The first part of the book was truly captivating, especially the section about the Eiger.

However, as the narrative progressed, it became extremely repetitive. There were literal, step-by-step descriptions of every major climb that Bonington and his friends undertook. The stories began to blend together, becoming rather dull and monotonous. Unless a particular detail was truly significant (which was sometimes the case), I didn't really need to know the exact number of steps taken by each climber or the comings and goings between different camps. Moreover, I often had trouble distinguishing between the various climbers, which lessened the impact of their successes, relationships, and even their deaths.

The issue of not being able to clearly identify the characters seems to be a common problem in many other mountaineering and polar exploring books that I've read. I suppose it's an inherent challenge in this genre. Willis provides detailed descriptions of these men, but I still found myself getting them all mixed up. This made it difficult for me to fully appreciate their individual experiences and achievements.

But perhaps my biggest concern with the book is the author's tendency to put thoughts into the minds of the climbers. At first, I was impressed by the detailed accounts and assumed that the climbers had kept excellent journals. However, when Willis started attributing thoughts to dying men, I realized that he must have been inventing these thoughts. This led me to question the authenticity of many of the other thoughts and details in the book. It made the entire narrative seem unreliable and left me feeling rather uncomfortable. I would have preferred if the author had been more cautious in his approach and presented these thoughts as speculations rather than facts.

Like other mountain-climbing literature, this book also has a tendency to become overly philosophical and poetic. At times, it feels like a desperate attempt to convince the reader that mountain climbing is a profound and self-awareness activity. However, much of the philosophy and moments of awakening seemed rather formulaic and repetitive. It made me怀疑 that these were actually the author's own ideas rather than the genuine thoughts of the individual climbers. While I believe that extreme pursuits in nature can lead to profound insights and self-reflection, I don't think the author can accurately speak for all of the climbers he writes about.

The pacing of the book was also rather strange. There were long stretches of step-by-step descriptions of climbs that were so repetitive that I would sometimes zone out. This meant that I would miss important details such as when someone fell, was injured, or died. These moments were often not given the emphasis or drama that they deserved, which made it difficult to fully engage with the story. Instead, there would be long philosophical discussions about death and the motivation of climbers, which felt rather disconnected from the actual events.

Despite these flaws, I do admire the research that went into this book. Some of the accounts were truly thrilling, and I learned a great deal about the world of mountaineering. There were also some fascinating details that I found myself sharing with friends and family. I believe that if the author had been more selective in his material and focused on just a few climbers and their most significant climbs, rather than trying to cover every aspect of their lives and thoughts, the book would have been much more engaging and enjoyable. As it stands, I think the book has potential, but it needs some significant editing and refinement to truly shine.

After having read some of the negative reviews here, I am almost reluctant to admit that I liked this book.

I have read a LOT of books on mountaineering and have enjoyed just about all of them. As I read this one, I could tell that Willis was clearly inventing dialogue and describing scenes that no one could possibly know about, like when a climber dies alone in the snow and cold. This has really angered many reviewers who only want to read works based on actual experience or firsthand accounts. That's fine, and they should stick to those books.

But when we write or talk about our own experiences, don't we tend to downplay things we did or said that we feel a bit guilty about? Isn't it natural to make ourselves look a little better when we tell a story to friends or family, no matter what the story is about? It surely is. All I'm saying is that even firsthand accounts aren't a completely true and accurate portrayal of events. Some people are more honest in their memoirs or accounts than others. There can be several "true" versions of any event. Maybe this book is less accurate than most because he fills in material to enhance the descriptions, but that doesn't mean this book is a lie and all the others are the truth. They all fall somewhere on a scale of accuracy.

I seem to recall reading that Truman Capote got similar reviews when he wrote In Cold Blood, which was considered a new genre of book that he pioneered: a non-fiction novel. Now, I'm not saying the writing here is on Capote's level, but there have been countless books, so to speak, that take real events and retell them with imagined parts filled in. These books range from pure historical fiction to those actually listed as non-fiction on book lists. Again, it's a sliding scale of accuracy.

I assume (perhaps naively) that the author bases at least some of the thoughts and feelings of the climbers in this book on their writings or, when possible, interviews with the climbers. In any case, the thoughts and feelings he filled in made me think much more about what these men were going through than a straightforward retelling of each climb could have done. And even though, as I said, Willis couldn't possibly know exactly how a climber died or what they felt or thought leading up to it, in the end, I suspended my disbelief because it was more interesting and thought-provoking than reading "And he was never seen alive again" several times.

I think it's probably accurate, if not specifically true every time, that sometimes these climbers' feelings were soaring while at other times they were incredibly miserable. And that sometimes they were angry with their climbing partners and at other times they felt they loved them. So these depictions are most likely accurate but not specifically true as far as their thoughts are concerned - going back to Capote's novelized non-fiction.

These descriptions show some of the less admirable traits of some climbers, but overall it's a thrilling tribute to them. I think part of the strong reaction against it is because it's similar to one of those tell-all books about summit climbs (or any tell-all book). It reminds me of Where the Mountain Casts its Shadow, by Maria Coffey, which I've ordered and plan to read soon. She was married to climbing legend Joe Tasker. Apparently, she writes beyond the mystery and the comradeship and bravery of the obsession that is competitive career mountaineering. After Tasker's death, she found out he had been unfaithful to her, as men often are in any line of work or social circle. So she wrote the book from the perspective of a climber's loved one. She got a lot of criticism for her book, but also a lot of support and encouragement.

There's always controversy when real people are represented in creative works and in a creative way. I was bothered when the movie Cinderella Man came out because it wrongly portrayed the boxer Max Baer as a violent thug. In fact, he was a warm, generous person (except when he was punching you in the ring) who didn't really like hitting people but made a lot of money doing it. His son, the actor Max Baer, tried to correct the record after the movie came out. But I don't think this book distorts events, misrepresents climbers, or insults them. I think a grain of salt is needed for most accounts of climbs and expeditions, and perhaps a larger grain of salt is required for this one.

As for the quality of the writing, which has also been criticized, I write novels and think I'm good at dialogue, and I found his scenes and conversations interesting and believable, although his prose is written in a more elaborate style than mine.

Hmm, talking about this has made me want to read In Cold Blood again.

I just have an intense love for these mountaineering books. They are all about revealing how insanely crazy these individuals are. There is this remarkable "true believer" aspect within them that compels them to keep going back, without any regard for the high cost it might exact on themselves and their families. This particular book is truly one of the best. It provides a comprehensive summary of a group of British mountaineers who engaged in a plethora of crazy activities. They took on numerous challenges and adventures that pushed the boundaries. And without a doubt, they ultimately paid a heavy price for their actions. The stories within these pages are both thrilling and cautionary, showing the extremes that some people will go to in the name of their passion for mountaineering.

Pretty incredible summary of some of the greatest expeditions in British climbing history.

Not that I know a lot on the topic, but the pretty objective description of events left me speechless more often than not.

It offers fascinating insights into the climber's diaries, thoughts, and feelings.

We get to see the challenges they faced, the risks they took, and the triumphs they achieved.

The detailed accounts of the expeditions make it easy to imagine oneself in their shoes, experiencing the excitement and fear.

It's a great read for anyone interested in climbing or adventure.

Whether you're a seasoned climber or just someone who enjoys a good story, this summary is sure to captivate you.

It shows the courage and determination of these climbers and makes you appreciate the beauty and power of nature.

Overall, it's a must-read for anyone who wants to learn more about the history of British climbing.

As someone who has never had the inclination, will never have the desire, and wants never to undertake the task of climbing even a modest hill that lacks a proper path and an ice cream shop at every mile, I find myself remaining somewhat befuddled by those individuals who seem to believe that they must endure the freezing cold, consume ridiculous food, drink tea constantly (if they are British), and face the ever-present risk of death. However, these seemingly crazy individuals are actually great fun to read about. I have perused several mountaineering accounts, and not merely for the remarkable feats of climbing, but also for the fascinating internal and external personality conflicts that unfold within the stories.

One cannot help but wonder in books like this just how much of the reported internal thinking can be trusted. An Amazon reviewer, who claims to be a moderately successful climber himself (though I am certainly in no position to judge), echoes my concern. He states, “…shows to be invented material on thoughts and motivations of the people about whom he writes. I am suspicious of this practice and it may well be that it says more about our Clint than it does about our Chris.”

In the wake of Tony’s death, one of the women at the base camp remarks that she had begun to “fear people who didn’t know any easier way to be happy.” This certainly encapsulates one attitude towards these overgrown children. Willis does not use the term “boys” lightly.

Climbing techniques were evolving, and Chris Bonington, a recurring figure in Willis’ book and renowned as a highly competent climber and organizer, soon realized that the methods of mountaineering had changed. The practice of large groups with multiple base camps, abundant supplies, numerous sherpas, and fixed ropes to facilitate passage between base camps was falling out of favor in favor of smaller, lighter assaults on summits, more in line with the tradition of Alpine climbers.

The larger query is whether the author accurately portrays the motivations and the ethos of climbing when he delves into these topics. I suspect that he does, but I have no means of knowing for certain. Nevertheless, this book is truly captivating and engrossing, a real page-turner.

Audiobook ably read by James Adams

*Ref: http://www.amazon.com/review/R293TC13...

Book 7 of 2021 was an interesting read, or rather listen in my case. I attempted to complete the audiobook which was approximately 16 hours long, but unfortunately, I fell a few hours short. It's important to note that this wasn't the narrator's fault. I've read several climbing books, and while listening to this one, I was simultaneously reading Krakauer's Into Thin Air. Compared to that, this book definitely had its shortcomings. With the audiobook, I sometimes got distracted by the minutiae. In this particular book, it meant that I could go an hour without really knowing where the climbers were. The details were simply overwhelming. Around 13 hours in, I realized that I probably wouldn't finish, and the reviews here pointed out the exact reason: there was way too much detail, especially considering the writer wasn't actually there. When done well, the fictional and non-fiction aspects blend seamlessly, and you believe what you're reading. I mostly did in this one, but I can understand the criticism.

I always manage to gain something from a book, even if I don't quite finish it. I had never heard of some of the mountains these men climbed before, like the Eiger. I'm still getting a better handle on climbing lingo, and there were some nice descriptions of piton use here. However, after reading several books, I found that simply googling pitons gave me a much better understanding of how they work. At 16 hours, the book must be quite long. This is a testament to the historical research done by Willis, but it also highlights the issue with his long descriptions that don't always advance the story. And that's why I've stalled out about 300m from the summit. Maybe next time I'll make it all the way.

A substantial project, masterfully penned by Clint Willis, chronicles a defining era of British mountaineering. His words are a powerful blend of rawness, honesty, and delicacy. Through his writing, he vividly showcases the lives, relationships, and climbs of the climbers. The story is deeply moving, pulling at the heartstrings and captivating the reader from start to finish. If you have ever wondered about the allure and challenges of climbing mountains, this book is a must-read. It offers a unique perspective and a glimpse into the minds and souls of those who dare to take on the seemingly insurmountable. Willis' writing is truly brilliant, painting a vivid picture that will stay with you long after you have turned the last page.

I have never climbed a mountain and probably never will climb one.

But I am a runner and I can understand the desire to push yourself to your limits with challenges that at first glance might seem impossible.

Climbing Mt Everest seems absolutely insane to most people and I can see why. This mountain kills so many who attempt it, it's a dangerous and life threatening activity.

But just as some would say "why in the world would anyone want to do something as crazy as running a marathon?" some would also say the same thing about climbing a mountain.

It's there, it's a challenge for those who are brave enough to tackle it. Is it off the walls crazy to do considering the very high chances that you will die in the attempt? Absolutely.

But you only live once. And if you do survive, what an accomplishment to have for the rest of your life.

So just as I would say life is short and unpredictable just run the marathon while you have the chance, these guys would say life is short, climb the mountain.

My hat is off to these gentlemen who were just crazy enough to attempt something of this magnitude.

They are the ones who dare to step out of their comfort zones and face the unknown.

They are the ones who inspire us to dream big and reach for the impossible.

Although I may never climb a mountain myself, I can still appreciate the courage and determination it takes to do so.

And perhaps, in some small way, their spirit will encourage me to take on my own challenges and push myself further than I ever thought possible.

FULLY yikes on this one.

It's bad enough that Willis thinks he's Hemingway. He mostly writes in short, declarative sentences that, unlike Hemingway's, quickly made my eyes glaze over. I'd drop a quote here, but you'd stop reading. His prose is incredibly stiff and clunky. However, that's not the biggest problem.

He also fails to adequately explain the effects of altitude on the human body and mind, or how our understanding of those things has changed since the time period he's writing about. Nor does he explain climbing techniques and equipment well. And we're STILL not to the biggest problem.

What I really have to condemn is Willis' failure to make clear when he's using source material and when he's just imagining what the people he's writing about were thinking, feeling, and doing. There are no direct quotes in this book. None. There's no way for a reader to know what these people really thought and said, what they wrote in their diaries and letters, and what Willis fabricated.

This is incredibly disrespectful to the living, but it's even worse to do to the dead. I found Willis' choice to imagine not only what people were thinking as they died, but in some cases, HOW they died, grotesque and unethical. He doesn't even make it clear to the reader that that's what he's doing. He presents these scenes as fact. It's an erasure of real people and their real experiences. I hope that none of the loved ones these men left behind read this book, because I have to imagine it would be deeply painful, not to mention insulting.

Basically, this is a work of fiction written by a hack. If you want to read good non-fiction about mountaineering tragedies, check out Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day or Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster.

You know,

I can't really tell you what the 'tragedy' was that the book's title refers to.

The book was kind of boring and there were so many characters coming and going that I couldn't keep them straight.

It seemed as if the author was trying to cram in too many elements without properly developing them.

I'm guessing there was a good story in there somewhere, but it was not delivered well enough.

The pacing was off, and the lack of clear focus made it difficult to engage with the narrative.

Maybe on paper it is a little better, but in my experience of reading it, it fell short of my expectations.

Perhaps with a different approach to the storytelling or a more refined editing process, the true potential of the story could have been realized.

This book was truly outstanding. I found myself spending an entire weekend engaged in a literal battle with a house guest over who would get the opportunity to read it. And, of course, I emerged victorious. After all, it was my house and my book.

The slightly distant narrative style employed in this book was highly effective. It offered a dispassionate exploration of some extremely emotive events. Despite maintaining this detached tone, it never lost sight of the fact that the men who managed to survive were constantly in danger. It's evident that a certain degree of poetic licence was used in the narrative, but this in no way diminished its impact.

Whether you are familiar with Bonington (if you're British and over a certain age, chances are you will be) or not, this book is well worth the read. It provides a captivating and thought-provoking account that will keep you hooked from beginning to end.

I recently returned from mountaineering school in the Cascades.

I went with the hope of familiarizing myself with the techniques and skills required to be a competent follower on a guided trip up some larger mountains, such as Rainier, Aconagua, or Denali.

The mountains had such an inspiring effect on me that I became eager to know the history of mountaineering.

Amazon recommended "The Boys of Everest."

Of course, I'd heard of Mallory and Hilary, but I'd never heard of Chris Bonington and his "boys" (including Hamish McInnes, Don Whillans, Ian Clough, Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman, Doug Scott, etc.).

Apparently, according to Clint Willis, they revolutionized climbing.

I don't know exactly how, as the book doesn't provide a great deal of context.

What it mainly does is give a step-by-step account of seemingly every climb these guys did, from the Bonatti Pillar and the Eiger's North Face to K2 and Everest.

Willis gives the briefest of biographical sketches (and even briefer sketches of the women left behind), then jumps right into the expeditions and the minutiae of some of the world's most famous climbs.

At first, the detail is thrilling.

You feel as if you are there, turn by turn and step by step as the climbers cross glaciers, lay anchors, and tap in pitons.

You get a sense of the sheer output of energy needed to reach the top.

After 500 pages, though, it just becomes repetitive.

One excruciatingly difficult climb blurs into another.

Throughout the climb, Willis intersperses the thoughts of his characters at certain points along the trek.

The detail of the thoughts is almost novelistic, and you wonder if these guys left behind great memoirs, letters, and diaries, or if Willis scored some great interviews.

Then, however, Willis starts relating the thoughts of dead men: what one climber felt as he fell off a cliff; what another sensed as he was buried by an avalanche.

No one could possibly know what these men felt in their last moments.

They died alone and left no remembrances or witnesses.

It is clear that Willis is either inferring from some other source or making things up; yet, he never bothers to tell the reader: "hey, I'm speculating."

This is questionably ethical and casts doubt on everything else.

The most glaring example of this is a reconstruction of Joe Tasker's and Peter Boardman's deaths near the Three Pinnacles of Everest's Northeast Ridge.

Willis recounts the episode factually, as if he'd interviewed God and God told him the entire sad tale.

Willis writes that Tasker gave up, Boardman tried to help him, then gave up too.

The fact is, no one knows what really happened to these two men.

Tasker's body was never found.

When I go to the mountains, everything else fades away.

You are reduced to the primitive, fundamental aspects of life.

You expend a great deal of energy melting snow for water, cooking food, staying dry, staying warm, keeping hydrated, and covered.

From dawn till dusk, you are moving with purpose, because there are always things to be done, and everything takes longer at altitude.

You don't think of your life back home: the lost loves, your finances, your job, politics, sports.

These things are pushed aside.

Indeed, you can't think of these things, because if you lose focus for even a moment, you could take a wrong step and find yourself sliding down a glacier.

This is why I go to the mountains.

Hilary put it best: "It is not the mountains we conquer, but ourselves."

Willis spends a lot of time trying to explain why his characters went to the mountains over and over, leaving behind their wives and girlfriends, often leaving their friends on the mountains.

It's an honorable attempt, but his rationales are too ephemeral and abstract and don't quite measure up to Hilary's assessment.

Indeed, an epigram at the start of the book succinctly states what Willis takes 500 pages to do: "Men who go to mountains are half in love with themselves, and half in love with oblivion."

The book could have used a lot more explanations of climbing tools and techniques.

To fully enjoy it, you either need to do further reading or have a secondary source at hand.

Willis never really explains what he means by pitons, prusik knots, running belays, and the like.

I knew most of what he was talking about from my own limited experience, but I definitely could have used a little more expansion on the foundations of my knowledge.

This story is a litany of dubious triumph and real tragedy.

If you've never been to a mountain top or had that desire, you won't understand what drove these men, even as they died one by one in the pursuit.

Reading this book won't solve that riddle.

However, if you can understand what motivates these men even before you open the cover, then you will be treated to a vivid retelling of some famous climbs (except, of course, for Willis's recounting of their deaths, which can only be based on assumption and speculation).