Almost every surfer I know has recommended this book, so I finally decided to pick it up and read it. I have never really come across a surf book that I truly liked, but this one came the closest. I'm not entirely sure if the author and I would have been surfing buddies. After all, he's 50 years old, a longboarder, has a tendency to pick fights, and even used to be involved in drug running. However, one thing is for sure, he is an excellent storyteller. His adventures traveling from Mexico to Costa Rica are truly a wild ride. He does an amazing job of weaving in stories from his younger days, tales of his pot smuggling escapades, and accounts of his journey, which all combine to make a very engaging beach read.
I absolutely loved hearing the stories of all the people he meets along the way. It seems that half of the expats down south are "on the run" and have some truly great stories to share. However, aside from the good storytelling, I couldn't help but feel that there was a somewhat depressing undertone to the book. It was as if the author was never quite satisfied with his life, no matter what happened to him. I suppose this makes sense given that he is kind of going through a midlife crisis. But unfortunately, it didn't really fill me with enthusiasm for life. On the positive side, though, it did give me a strong desire to explore Central America soon and, of course, to go surfing.