About a year ago, I had the opportunity to read a captivating book titled Blind Descent: The Quest to Discover the Deepest Place on Earth. This book was all about the thrilling adventure of finding the basement of the earth. A group of brave cave divers embarked on a perilous journey into a seemingly bottomless cave, filled with countless unknown dangers. Despite being completely enthralled by this tale, for some reason, I didn't pick up any exploration books after finishing it.
However, my interest in exploration was reignited recently when I listened to an episode of Kevin Smith and Scott Mosier’s SModcast. In that episode, Mosier recommended Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. Intrigued, I decided to give it a try.
Before delving into the book, I knew very little about Mount Everest. I was only aware of the basics: it's the tallest mountain in the world, and it's extremely difficult to climb. But just how difficult is it? Well, for starters, there are frozen bodies littered on its slopes. The thought of that alone is enough to send shivers down your spine. I thought I had an idea of the challenges involved in climbing the mountain, but I had no clue that people had actually died on there and their bodies remained. And let's not forget about altitude sickness, falling rocks and boulders, and massive blocks of ice the size of large buildings that can detach and fall without any warning.
Jon Krakauer provides a breathtaking account of his attempt to conquer the mighty Mount Everest in 1996, along with a group of others. He goes into great detail in describing his arduous journey to the summit, but it's what happens when he reaches the top that is truly captivating and terrifying. Greeted by a fierce and destructive storm, Krakauer and his teammates had to fight for their lives as they tried to make their way back down the mountain. Some were fortunate enough to survive, while others were not. In fact, some of those who did survive achieved extraordinary feats of strength and demonstrated an unwavering will to get off that mountain.
I don't want to give away too many details here. I believe that if I don't let Krakauer tell the full story himself, I would be ruining the experience for you. There are parts of this book where you'll find yourself thinking, "This can't possibly get any worse." And then, it does. Especially when it comes to Beck Weathers. What that man went through is simply mind-blowing.
Into Thin Air or Injustice (of many kinds) on the Mountain.
Until almost the end, this book was precisely as I had anticipated, with just a single exception. It is the account of a journalist ascending Mount Everest, both in his capacity as a journalist and a mountaineer. What a dream – getting paid to pursue your hobby! It is interesting because Krakauer is an outstanding writer, and it is captivating to observe the details of how the mountain is climbed.
However, it is also disappointing. Few individuals undertake this feat alone, without significant support. Take, for example, the guy who cycled all the way from Europe to Nepal and then climbed the mountain solo. (I would have loved to read his story, but it was only alluded to in the book. Later, I read his book Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey). For everyone else, it's a package tour for the fit but not necessarily experienced individuals who desire to climb Everest and have a substantial amount of spare cash. Transport is arranged, tents are set up, luggage is carried, and there will be steaming hot tea waiting for the climbers upon their return to their tents after an expedition. If they really can't climb well, they can be short-roped and pulled up. Short-roping involves the climber attaching a less-than-one-metre rope to the waist of the would-be-climber and literally hauling them up.
Still, even with all this portering and pampering, I was surprised that the first climbers of the season (using last year's ropes) fitted ropes up Everest so that the climbers didn't have to set their own. Moreover, ladders were installed on the really difficult sections! But no matter how many shortcuts and easements they manage to achieve, there are two things that can neither be predicted nor controlled. One is altitude sickness, which in some forms can be fatal very quickly, and in others, it causes mental delusions that led one of the team to his death. The other is the weather. Fifteen climbers died in the year Krakauer climbed.
At the beginning of this review, I mentioned that there was one exception to my expectations for this book based on several books I have read by this author. The exception was one extraordinary chapter filled with the most vituperative nastiness against a socialite climber. I had no idea why it was there. He didn't become any kinder towards her as the book progressed either. But then he said that when he was writing the book, he had a 75-minute phone conversation with her. Either she didn't know what he'd written – I would never bother wasting time on someone who had so little respect for me and intended to tell the world – or he didn't write it until after the phone conversation. My only reaction to the chapter was thinking that the author was such a damn bitch.
The last chapter was extremely interesting. Krakauer had not held much respect for another of the climbers – the guide and tour leader Anatoli Boukreev. He felt that Boukreev was more focused on fulfilling his own climbing ambitions rather than adhering to his job of assisting others to climb and safeguarding their safety. Boukreev wrote his own book, stating that Krakauer had not mentioned certain incidents that were somewhat detrimental to himself and that he had made some observational errors, either due to oxygen deprivation or wilfulness, and presented his own version of the climb. This back-and-forth argument took place in print and on TV, and this chapter is Krakauer's defence. Sadly, Boukreev, an excellent climber, was buried under an avalanche on Annapurna the following year, in 1997, so we will never know what he thought of Krakauer's defence.
The book is worth reading because the Sherpas have always been marginalized in stories of climbing Everest. As if it is somehow more praiseworthy for a White man to climb the mountain, and it's nothing for the Sherpas who can just hop up and down like monkeys carrying all the loads while the white man climbs. This book corrects the record. The mountain could not be the business it is without the Sherpas. The tour companies and guides have enormous respect for these men and their abilities and form as firm friendships with them as they do with anyone else in their lives. It's a shame that this respect doesn't translate into paying them more than the one-tenth they earn compared to the tour guides. Of course, it's justified in the traditional way – this is local wages, this is a lot of money for the locals, the locals don't need the things the guides from America, Australia, etc. do... Oh, how tiresome. I've heard it all before. Why can't people just put their money where their mouth is? You can't pay bills and send your kids to school with respect. Reduced by 1-star to four stars because of this.
Rewritten 7 May 2020 due to Covid-19 boredom, finding the book and skimming through it.