This is an extended review of this fine, and classic, book on the American West.

On the Fourth of July, 1868, Colorado Territorial Governor and veteran westerner William Gilpin addressed a gathering in Denver. He painted a vivid picture of the American West as bright as the hot sun shining down on his listeners. For him, the West was a land of limitless possibility and abundant natural resources. The lands beyond the 100th meridian were not the so-called “The Great American Desert” or arid plains. Instead, it was fertile land capable of supporting three domestic animals for every bison grazing on its grass. In this virtual Eden, plows were unnecessary as underground water irrigated the crops, which were immune to heat, cold, or drought. Moreover, the Rocky Mountains held vast supplies of precious metals.

Meanwhile, to the North in what would soon become Wyoming Territory, a small group of explorers led by John Wesley Powell, a thirty-four-year-old Civil War veteran, prepared for an expedition to the Rocky Mountains. Beyond the Hundredth Meridian by Wallace Stegner tells the story of how Powell came to view and understand the American West differently from Gilpin and his followers. Stegner also describes how Powell tried to use his knowledge to influence government policy on Western development. Unlike Gilpin’s emotional and fact-transcending vision, Powell’s views were based on science and systematic study. Eventually, Powell saw the West for what it truly was and advocated a vision that was far ahead of its time.

However, before Powell could have an impact on the West’s future, he had to make a name for himself. In the tradition of John C. Fremont, he achieved this through exploration. On July 6, 1869, Powell and eight companions set off down the Green River. Their goal was to float until it merged with the Grand to form the Colorado River and then continue downstream. The entire journey was through an area largely unknown to geographers, a rare white space on contemporary maps. On August 30, six of the men reached their destination, while the other three were killed by Shivwits Indians just days before the end.

Powell and his companions gained fame for their remarkable achievement. After being rumored dead three times, Powell was praised for his determination and geniality. He had “unlocked the last great unknown region of the country and made it his own.” Congress appropriated $10,000 for his continued work on the Colorado River, and Powell embarked on a scientific career that led him to the top of the American scientific bureaucracy.

Yet, this rise was not without obstacles. Powell initially faced competition from other Western surveys sponsored by Congress. He constantly fought for appropriations and used his political acumen to keep his Western Survey of the Plateau Province operational. It was in one of these political battles that he released his Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States in 1877. In this report, he challenged both Gilpin’s vision and the Western politicians who promoted it. Powell recognized that the usual farming methods would be ineffective west of the 100th meridian due to the arid climate, which received less than twenty inches of rainfall per year.

Time proved Powell right. Despite various acts of Congress to encourage farming and homesteading in the West, most attempts failed. Farming in the West could only succeed with irrigation, but the availability of water was limited. By 1878, Powell saw that much of the land with irrigation potential was in the hands of corporations and cattlemen, which he knew would lead to despair and ruin for homesteaders. He wanted to stop this development but ultimately lost the fight with the vested interests after a long struggle.

Beyond the Hundredth Meridian is an important book for several reasons. It shows how closer adherence to Powell’s vision could have saved many families from the hardships of farming in the arid West. It also demonstrates how Powell’s scientific plans for resource use could have reduced wasteful exploitation in the West. Additionally, Stegner effectively illustrates how politics and vested interests often override reason and science. The book is also engaging, telling a story that at times feels like a battle between good and evil. While the author may have simplified Powell’s character a bit, the core lesson remains valid. When politics trumps science, reason, and fact, people suffer. This realization is especially timely today.

How to describe this book?!

I found the first part, which details Powell’s Grand Canyon adventures, and the last part, about his equally brave two decades in Washington, to be the most interesting.

However, I skimmed the middle as it can be very dense.

Nonetheless, I have developed such a profound respect for Major Powell, the one-armed man.

He had the courage to go raft the Colorado river in wooden boats!

Then he battled Congress in various ways until his death.

He made the first significant leaps in mapping the west, with all that implies.

I’ve learned an abundance about water laws, irrigation, mapping, and more, and am simply impressed with all that this remarkable man accomplished.

This is a dense but excellent read for anyone who loves and respects nature and is curious about some western history!

John Wesley Powell is widely regarded as the brave one-armed Civil War veteran who embarked on a remarkable journey down the Colorado River, effectively "discovering" it and the previously unknown surrounding territory. This is the narrative that has been taught in American high schools to this very day.

However, it is important to note that Powell did not actually explore the entire length of the Colorado River. The lower 400 miles were already quite well-known, with paddle boat steamers traveling a significant distance up the river from its mouth. This reveals the shallowness of the teaching in our schools.

In reality, Powell was focused on exploring the vast and largely unexplored areas of the west that had never been surveyed. He was determined to chase away the "dragons" and dispel the myths surrounding what truly lay in the west. But his efforts were met with significant opposition back east.

Ultimately, the haters and science deniers in Washington managed to starve his departments of the necessary funding and drive him out of town, after multiple slanderous attempts to ruin his reputation.

One of the many powerful quotes from this book is when Powell addressed Congress as they heckled him, saying, "I tell you gentlemen, you are piling up a heritage of conflict and litigation over water rights for there is not sufficient water to supply the land."

Fortunately, over the past 100 years, many of the measures proposed by this man of great vision have been put into action. Since that fateful meeting in October 1893, John Wesley Powell has been proven right time and time again about the reality of the American West.

This book truly resonates as it bears a striking resemblance to various modern scenarios playing out in the United States in recent years. It's like that famous line from the film: "Forget it (John), it's Chinatown." Five stars for this excellent read.

On my top 10 of 10,000, this book holds a special place.

No one can truly claim to have a sufficient understanding of the expansion of the West in the late 19th and early 20th centuries without having read this remarkable work. Wallace Stegner is an incredibly beautiful writer, and you are bound to fall in love with this book.

John Wesley Powell was an extraordinary figure. He not only led the historic Explorations of the Grand, Green, and Colorado Rivers and their Canyons, bravely venturing into the blank areas of the western US. But he also founded the US Geological Survey and the Bureau of Ethnicity. Additionally, he was a cofounder and an inaugural attendee of the very first meeting to consider the creation of a Society for the increase and diffusion of geographic knowledge - The National Geographic Society.

This is a beautiful, Pulitzer-winning biography of JW Powell, a magnificent literary tour de force. It offers a captivating look into the life and times of this remarkable man and the significant events that shaped the West.

So, do yourself a favor and read this one. It will surely enrich your understanding and appreciation of this important period in American history.

This book, which was written in 1954, still holds significant worth today.

The contrast between the individualistic Westerner, represented by cowboys, and the concept of the greater good, often associated with the government, is a theme that runs throughout the text.

Even 70 years later, modern historians like Heather Cox Richardson make use of the same analogies.

There is a great deal to know and respect about John Wesley Powell beyond his famous explorations.

I was completely unaware of those remarkable exploits or even the more enduring legacies of his extensive government service.

The book places a strong emphasis on the importance of doing things for the greater good.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if a larger portion of our population could think and act in accordance with those principles?

It is a thought-provoking idea that could potentially lead to a more harmonious and prosperous society.

Perhaps we should all take a moment to reflect on the lessons that can be learned from this book and consider how we can apply them in our own lives.

A Colossal Waste of Time: "Boring" Would Be A Compliment

Mr. Stegnor's work on this particular piece is a disappointment. He should have remained in the realm of his wonderful fiction. The Colorado River crew led by Powell endured numerous desperate situations, yet Stegnor's prose fails to do justice to their experiences. It is flat and has a lackluster "ho hum, ODTAA (one darn thing after another), here-we-go-again-our-lives-are threatened" quality. Even the terrifying scenarios of drowning or falling from a cliff to one's death barely move the reader the first time they occur. The repetition of these events oddly desensitizes the reader rather than evoking the appropriate emotions.

Perhaps the fact that the Powell party chose the mission to explore the Colorado River by boat, rather than having it assigned by the State, Army, or President, somehow diminished the nobility and selflessness of the action. Instead of coming across as heroic, Powell ends up seeming pompous and a bit silly. The remaining intra-governmental intrigues that conclude the book are mind-numbingly dull. "Beyond the Hundredth Meridian" is an insufferably boring government pamphlet on steroids, combined with a writing style that appears to be inspired by the average Ikea assembly directions. I regret the hours I wasted plodding through this painfully tepid screed. I will never be able to get those precious hours back.

It is truly a colossal waste of time and a missed opportunity to tell a captivating story.

I just had to read this after hearing about Powell nonstop during our trip to some of the national parks in Utah and Arizona this summer!

The first third about his preparation and first trip down the Colorado River was truly fascinating and engrossing. It painted a vivid picture of the challenges he faced and the courage he showed.

However, the second third about his political career was much less captivating. It seemed to lack the excitement and adventure of the previous part.

The last third about his downfall was also kind of boring to me. The reasons given, such as his many enemies who didn't have his forward thinking and conservationist spirit, as well as the pain from his amputated arm, didn't really engage my interest.

Despite this, the book was incredibly well written. The author's descriptions were detailed and the narrative flowed smoothly. It is definitely a must read for anyone interested in any aspect of the Colorado River and all the parks, dams, gorges, and canyons associated with it.

Overall, while some parts of the book were more interesting than others, it provided a comprehensive look at Powell's life and his impact on the Colorado River region.

This is a very good book.

It offers a solid path of thought that traverses the US West during the 1870s and 1880s.

John Wesley Powell had an outsized impact on the land, the people, and the legislation.

He discovered new areas, mapped them, engineered dam sites, and managed to secure funding through Congress.

Powell saw the potential of the West rather than just its current status.

He also wrote reports and articles for the masses to read, truly making him a visionary.

Similar to Brigham Young, he envisioned the West as a fully populated area long before the people actually arrived.

I was hoping to learn more about the water, as the title led me to believe it might include references to the 100th Meridian, which is specifically a water line.

However, in this book, it is used to demarcate the West from the East in the US.

Overall, it's all good. I really loved it and would rate it 4 stars.

I feel a bit remorseful for awarding this book only 2 stars. It is evident that the research is painstaking, and it offers a detailed account of Powell's exploration of the West and the political struggles in Washington, just as promised. However, for me, there was simply an overwhelming amount of information.

I likely would not have completed the book if I had been reading it in print. Fortunately, I listened to it on audio, which allowed me to multitask while listening.

One aspect that I did find interesting was Powell's strong opposition to turning the prairies into homesteaded farms. In fact, he essentially predicted the horrors of the Dust Bowl.

My conclusion is that, much like today, in the late 1800s, the government was more concerned with personal connections, political influence, and financial gain than with what was truly in the best interest of the country.

This book provides a valuable historical perspective, but its dense content may make it a challenging read for some.

John Wesley Powell's explorations of the Colorado River and the West are truly captivating.

He not only delved into the uncharted territory but also engaged with the Indians, learning their language and understanding their culture. His work with the United States Geological Survey was crucial in mapping the West, planning for irrigation, and outlining water rights.

Quotes from the text provide insights into Powell's mindset and the significance of his work. For example, "Even in 1868 he knew enough not to say that 'North America is known to our people.'" This shows his awareness of the vast unknown that still existed.

Powell's homemade education and his experiences as a frontier explorer shaped him into the remarkable figure he became. His academic career was restless, but his determination to succeed never wavered.

The members of the Rocky Mountain Scientific Exploring Expedition, led by Powell, were a diverse group. They faced numerous challenges on their journey, but their curiosity and thirst for knowledge drove them forward.

The exploration of the Colorado River was a significant undertaking. The river was seen as a natural highway and a gateway to an empire rich in resources. Powell's maps and observations were essential in understanding the region's geography and potential.

Despite setbacks and difficulties, Powell continued his work. His vision of a leisurely exploration was abandoned, but his contributions to science and knowledge were invaluable.

Today, Powell's work is still relevant. His classification of the mountain West into physiographic regions and his emphasis on accurate mapping and scientific research have had a lasting impact.

John Wesley Powell's story is one of adventure, perseverance, and a passion for discovery. It is a testament to the power of human curiosity and the importance of exploring the unknown.

DNF at 40%.

Ratings are subjective, and giving a 1 might not be entirely just. So, I'll leave it unrated for now.

There are several things I didn't initially realize. This book was first published in 1953, which gives it a distinct flavor. For example, the author's repeated use of the derogatory term "squaw" was quite distracting.

The first part of the book was an exciting adventure story. It described a small group of European outdoorsmen trying to traverse the "unspoiled west" along the Green and Colorado rivers in the late 1800s. It's remarkable that most of them survived. However, after that, it devolved into a long list of names, places, and Washington DC policies and politics, which lost my interest. I had to return the book on Libby before finishing it, and I don't think I'll bother to complete it.

I appreciate the historical context and the adventure aspect, but the latter part just didn't hold my attention. Maybe others will find it more engaging.

This is an extremely interesting book that combines an adventure story with a story of good governance.

John Wesley Powell was the very first American to undertake the journey along the Colorado River from its source to its terminus, thereby also becoming the first American to traverse the Grand Canyon. It was an incredibly harrowing journey that makes for a captivating yarn. He embarked on this adventure at the behest of the US government and later went on to serve as an Administrator in several government departments.

In the course of his work, he came to realize that American land tenure laws were optimized for the east coast and midwest and were entirely inappropriate for the far west. The far west was significantly more arid and thus depended completely on irrigation to be profitable. Consequently, the key issue in land rights was not the land itself but rather water.

Powerful land barons who recognized this and exploited the flawed laws to amass great fortunes managed to destroy him politically. However, his ideas endured and were ultimately implemented in the 1930s and 1950s. This single informative volume presents a very interesting combination of stories.