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When I was younger and the world was larger, I heard Timbuktu (with various spellings) mentioned much more often, generally in the context of the back of beyond, the ends of the earth, a place so far away that you would have to travel into and out of the heart of darkness just to get there. Now, the world is much smaller, there are fewer blank places on the map (not counting a section of New Jersey) and if you want to visit Timbuktu, just go to Google Earth, type in "Timbuktu, Mali," hit "enter," and Bob's your uncle.
In To Timbuktu: A Journey Down the Niger, Mark Jenkins and his three companions (two of whom are there for all the wrong reasons and are lucky to have survived their ignorance)go out of their way to get to the fabled Islamic city the old fashioned way. By kayaking from the headwaters of the Niger to Timbuktu and into the Gulf of Guinea, they travel from the darkness of the unknown into the twilight of legend and on into the light of the modern world, for until their journey the headwaters were unknown (well, the natives knew, but natives worldwide rarely count in the annals of civilization) and no one had ever mad the journey from beginning to end.
Jenkins' account of the preparation, journey and aftermath is brutally honest and candid, with equal portions of foolishness, heroism, terror and naivety. He also includes generous helpings from the accounts of past explorers, from the Greeks and Romans onward. One might think that the river and its dangerous fauna (hippos, crocs, people) might be the greatest perils, but he shows us that bureaucracy can be an even more formidable foe, deceived only by forged travel papers and placated only by bribes, especially in areas where one local warlord is more powerful than the entire country.
Jenkins is a perceptive observer, both of the land through which he travels and the people whom he meets. He documents poverty, injustice and despair with the same sensibility that he uses to record ancient lifestyles, wisdom and joy. While his account often makes the reader glad he is not there with Jenkins, for example when he kayaks through an "impenetrable" wall of river debris after a storm or when Jenkins realizes that being so low in his kayak his butt is in a perfect position to be chomped by a crocodile, we are always glad he is there, telling us what we missed.
In To Timbuktu: A Journey Down the Niger, Mark Jenkins and his three companions (two of whom are there for all the wrong reasons and are lucky to have survived their ignorance)go out of their way to get to the fabled Islamic city the old fashioned way. By kayaking from the headwaters of the Niger to Timbuktu and into the Gulf of Guinea, they travel from the darkness of the unknown into the twilight of legend and on into the light of the modern world, for until their journey the headwaters were unknown (well, the natives knew, but natives worldwide rarely count in the annals of civilization) and no one had ever mad the journey from beginning to end.
Jenkins' account of the preparation, journey and aftermath is brutally honest and candid, with equal portions of foolishness, heroism, terror and naivety. He also includes generous helpings from the accounts of past explorers, from the Greeks and Romans onward. One might think that the river and its dangerous fauna (hippos, crocs, people) might be the greatest perils, but he shows us that bureaucracy can be an even more formidable foe, deceived only by forged travel papers and placated only by bribes, especially in areas where one local warlord is more powerful than the entire country.
Jenkins is a perceptive observer, both of the land through which he travels and the people whom he meets. He documents poverty, injustice and despair with the same sensibility that he uses to record ancient lifestyles, wisdom and joy. While his account often makes the reader glad he is not there with Jenkins, for example when he kayaks through an "impenetrable" wall of river debris after a storm or when Jenkins realizes that being so low in his kayak his butt is in a perfect position to be chomped by a crocodile, we are always glad he is there, telling us what we missed.