From podcast wild ideas

Had a hard time finishing this book! Was not as good as I thought!

This caputres the essence of being a surfer, great read, pick it up and open it.

Caught Inside by Daniel Duane
A Surfer spends a year In Santa Cruz, CA coast surfing. Local wildlife and how surfing works, water dynamics and the board itself.
Real life stories of when he is on the board, in the ocean and what creatures approach.
I received this book from National Library Service for my BARD (Braille Audio Reading Device).

perfekt, wenn man am meer ist. ein bißchen lebensgefühl, ein bißchen know-how.

Great read for those that surf the California coast.

a how-to guide for dropping out of bourgeois berkeley, running away to Santa Cruz and being a misunderstood surfer. for its era (1970s) its what I suspect is representative but now it reads as a glamourisation/idealisation of surfing and surfers. worth reading in the bathroom anyway.

Seems to capture the attitude and vocabulary well. Unfortunately, this is a good way to make the subject uninteresting for those who aren't already familiar with it: descriptions of people arguing in a car about where to go using insider terms for an hour does not create a favourable impression.

One of the best written pieces of surf literature.

This is a book that seeks to explain the passion of surfing. Duane leaves his dead end job and for a year commits to surfing every day. During this year he learns about reading the waves and surf culture from older experienced surfers. He gets to know how they came to the life choices that defied society's conventions. The author also recounts many quiet moments astride his surfboard, observing the wildlife and beauty of the central California coast.

daniel duane is hot. my friend used to date him.

This was great, I have never surfed in my life but loved Duane's lyrical descriptions of the sea and its denizens as he searches for the perfect wave. I am moving to Santa Cruz and looking forward to experiencing some of the beauty he obviously loves.