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This guy could write. Man, I miss him.
A few things bubble up as I think about this book.
First is how Bourdain set out, more or less from the beginning, to be the kind of person he became. He wanted to be seen, recognized, thought-highly-of. He wanted to quip snarkily about things. He wanted to squeeze the juice out of the blood-orange of life, to slurp the seductive oyster.
He was aware that he was pretentious and obnoxious, that part of his personality was pure affect, and that was fine. That was how he wanted it to be.
The second thing is how Bourdain ran and appreciated others running a kind of culinary miscreant pirate ship in the kitchen. He instructed runners to give body blows to anyone impeding the flow of orders, ingredients, and completed dishes. He ran intelligence operations. He constantly inquired, like a field general, about the psychological health of the operation, human resources, the industry as a whole, and their competitors across the street. He stabbed a handsy coworker with a rusty meat fork. He drooped, exhausted under fluorescent lights, or zipped, coked up, from one failing restaurant operation to the next. The world Bourdain described, created, and maintained in this book was, intentionally, delicious.
A third and maybe most salient surprise, had to do with his first trip to Japan which he relates toward the end of the book. He describes, with mild discomfort, the thirteen hour flight. He talks about walking the streets in a fog of jet lag. He pedals a bicycle, and wanders smokey alleyways, unsure of where he is and what he is expected to do. More than anything, his fear is fascinating. This man, whom I only ever knew as an intrepid explorer on CNN—shotgunning barbecued insects, ceremonially slaughtering Masai meat—was once a cowering American outsider. He describes an early morning ramble, his first in Tokyo, peering into uncertain doorways, and being stared at. He feels out of place. He seeks refuge in a Starbucks, the culturally familiar. He kicks himself for being too afraid to try a soba noodle place, and strikes out again, this time determined. He pulls back a curtain, plops down on a stool, squints at an all-Japanese menu, then jerks a thumb at the salary man seated next to him. "I'll have what he's having."
Incorrigible, crass, intelligent, and curious, Bourdain, in many of the ways that mattered, knew how to take life, prepare, and serve it.
I'd like to have what he's having too.
A few things bubble up as I think about this book.
First is how Bourdain set out, more or less from the beginning, to be the kind of person he became. He wanted to be seen, recognized, thought-highly-of. He wanted to quip snarkily about things. He wanted to squeeze the juice out of the blood-orange of life, to slurp the seductive oyster.
He was aware that he was pretentious and obnoxious, that part of his personality was pure affect, and that was fine. That was how he wanted it to be.
The second thing is how Bourdain ran and appreciated others running a kind of culinary miscreant pirate ship in the kitchen. He instructed runners to give body blows to anyone impeding the flow of orders, ingredients, and completed dishes. He ran intelligence operations. He constantly inquired, like a field general, about the psychological health of the operation, human resources, the industry as a whole, and their competitors across the street. He stabbed a handsy coworker with a rusty meat fork. He drooped, exhausted under fluorescent lights, or zipped, coked up, from one failing restaurant operation to the next. The world Bourdain described, created, and maintained in this book was, intentionally, delicious.
A third and maybe most salient surprise, had to do with his first trip to Japan which he relates toward the end of the book. He describes, with mild discomfort, the thirteen hour flight. He talks about walking the streets in a fog of jet lag. He pedals a bicycle, and wanders smokey alleyways, unsure of where he is and what he is expected to do. More than anything, his fear is fascinating. This man, whom I only ever knew as an intrepid explorer on CNN—shotgunning barbecued insects, ceremonially slaughtering Masai meat—was once a cowering American outsider. He describes an early morning ramble, his first in Tokyo, peering into uncertain doorways, and being stared at. He feels out of place. He seeks refuge in a Starbucks, the culturally familiar. He kicks himself for being too afraid to try a soba noodle place, and strikes out again, this time determined. He pulls back a curtain, plops down on a stool, squints at an all-Japanese menu, then jerks a thumb at the salary man seated next to him. "I'll have what he's having."
Incorrigible, crass, intelligent, and curious, Bourdain, in many of the ways that mattered, knew how to take life, prepare, and serve it.
I'd like to have what he's having too.