Other than a few cracked ribs, I emerged from this book with a valuable travel anecdote: sometimes, it's beneficial to get creatively lost. While a sense of purpose has its moments when traveling, for the most part, it's highly overrated.
McCarthy documents his journey through his native Ireland, where he spent part of his early life and received his early education from the Christian Brothers, who employed "the carrot and stick method of education, but without the carrot."
He flies to Cork and then rents a car to drive around, a "bog-standard repmobile with up-to-the-minute features" and a radio he can't operate. Later in the journey, he gets a flat tire, which he struggles to change as he hasn't changed a wheel in about 15 years.
As he relishes the simple manly pleasure of changing the wheel, he fails to notice the cows that have drawn closer to watch, with their "misty, mad, glued-up eyes and their vile dribly lips, oozing mucus." He is unsettled by their gaze, and his concentration is completely disrupted. Apparently, there are approximately 12 cow-related deaths each year.
This was an outstanding book, a self-titled travelogue in a sense. I was in stitches while reading some of the passages and descriptions, even though I had never been to Ireland, where the shops are named after saints like St. Peter and St. Mark, presumably to "Indicate divine endorsement."
Born to an English father of Irish descent and an Irish mother, McCarthy explores Ireland through a hilarious travel story and his unsuccessful attempt at reconnecting with his roots and relatives.
He shares the "rules of travel" throughout the book, starting with rule no. 8: Never Pass A Bar That Has Your Name On It. Other rules include no. 7: Never Eat in a Restaurant with Laminated Menus, and no. 17: Never Try and Score Dope from Hassidic Jews While Under the Impression They're Rastafarians.
Five stars from me!
I felt a new wave of grief when I learned that Pete McCarthy passed away in 2004. I only discovered this as I was searching for more of his books online. May his soul rest in peace.